Hindi for lovely flower, Phul-Nana is `A Bouquet of India`s Choicest Flowers.` A fresh, sweet floral composition with aromatic fougère overtones on a soft, warm, woody base. A citric rich top is invigorating, yet this tart, zippy, lightweight intro quickly resolves into a richer assortment of notes.
Geranium complicates things; its tangy intensity matches its citric predecessors, yet this flower’s tang borders on piquancy, and eventually evolves into a complex floral spice. Tuberose is a natural follow-up to geranium, displaying its own hydra-headed, shapeshifting identity. Initially fruity and luminous, tuberose grows powder soft yet aggressively feral as geranium lets loose its spice.
Ylang ylang injects a solid, sweet bolt of warmth into the heart of Phul-Nana, and there it slowly crystallizes into a golden-amber sugar. Patchouli echoes ylang-ylang’s mouthwatering appeal, yet this leaf is a more ephemeral presence than the flower, existing solely as a dense, languid smoke.
Benzoin, opoponax and cedarwood echoe patchouli’s rare charm, casting sparkling, smoldering shadows across the base of Phul-Nana. Sandalwood is a clarifying moment, a cool, verdant reprieve that offsets the increasing warmth. Tonka bean and vanilla are final, invisible notes that subtly reformulate the preceding components so that Phul-Nana lands on skin and stays intact, in all its mercurial glory.
Originally created in 1891, this scent is a rare marriage of the herb garden with the flower garden- unusual in a feminine fragrance. A guide for all the ‘oriental’ fragrances that followed, Phul-Nana maintains its contemporary, groundbreaking verve.